Tundraco's Daily Living Guide to Pets Water 101 - For Fish

Fish live in water, but all water is not the same. Water is classified as fresh, salt, or brackish (slightly salty). A fish that requires saltwater cannot live in fresh water. The reverse is also true. However, a fish that lives in brackish water, for example eels, may be able to live in either fresh or salt water.

In addition, water for fish can also be classified as cold or tropical. For example, goldfish are cold water fish, meaning that they can tolerate low water temperatures. Tropical fish, such as Zebra Danios are warm water fish. Tropical fish require water that is heated to about 78° F. Saltwater fish, such as Lionfish, require water in the 75° -80° F range.

• The pH of your water will tell you if it is acid, base or neutral. A pH in the 6.5-7.5 range is good for most freshwater fish. Saltwater fish require a pH range of 8.0-8.4. They cannot tolerate levels below 8.0 pH.

• KH refers to the carbonate hardness of your water. The carbonate acts as a buffer to keep the pH in a neutral range.

• GH is the general hardness of your water. Water is classified as hard when it contains high levels of dissolved minerals.

What is the source of the water, which you will be adding to your fish tank? Is it from a municipal water source or a well?

If your water comes from a well there are three things that you need to be concerned about. Is your water very hard, or does your water have a high bacteria count? Well water may also have high levels of dissolved gasses.

There are many commercial testing kits available to test your water's hardness. If it is very high, you can either select fish that thrive in hard water. You can also soften the water by placing a layer of peat moss under the gravel in your tank.

To test for bacteria, you will need to have your water analyzed by a testing lab. If your water is contaminated, it will need to be treated, both for your own health and your fishes. The testing lab will be able to offer suggestions as to how to treat your water.

If your well water has high levels of dissolved gasses, all you need to do is aerate the water for a few hours before using. To find out if your water has high levels of dissolved gasses, test the pH. Now aerate the water for a few hours. Test the pH again, if it has gone up, your water has 'gas'.

Municipal water supplies often contain a host of added chemicals and other contaminants that can be harmful to fish. These include, but are not limited to, chlorine, chloramine, phosphates, nitrates, lead (from old pipes), and iron. To find out the full extent of the additives, contact your local water district. They can tell you what has been added to the water. Check back often as the use of additives fluctuates throughout the year.

Once you know what is in the water, you can begin to treat it. Take a list of the additives to a knowledgeable fish specialist and ask for their recommendations.

Fish eat, and consequently, they excrete waste material. This waste material produces ammonia, and ammonia is toxic to fish. In nature, the ammonia is diluted by the vastness of the natural water environment. It is further broken down by bacteria, which convert the ammonia into nitrogen. These bacteria will naturally migrate to your tank, once it detects the presence of ammonia. The best way to 'charge' your tank with these bacteria is to put a couple of fish into the tank and let them do what comes naturally. These starter fish will produce the ammonia need to start the Nitrification cycle.

Unless you have thoroughly studied the subject of water chemistry, don’t attempt to play chemist with your tank's water.

• Overall, the easiest and cheapest method of maintaining a safe and healthy aquatic environment for you fish is to change the water frequently. On a biweekly basis, remove 25% of the water from the tank, and replace it with clean water.